There are Christmas markets, and then there is Dubrovnik’s latest idea: scrap the wooden huts, ditch the bratwurst, and line the Stradun with café tables instead. Because nothing says “festive spirit” quite like squeezing in an extra chair for Auntie Marija next to a double espresso, while a string of fairy lights valiantly attempts to compete with the grandeur of baroque palaces.

Now, before anyone mourns the loss of those festive stands, let me confess: I personally think they were a bad idea from the start.

Cheap (and frankly disgusting) hotdogs from Lidl masquerading as “local delicacies” was always destined for ridicule. And let’s be honest, the hygiene standards were questionable to say the least. Mulled wine ladled out of plastic barrels with dubious levels of alcohol doesn’t exactly conjure visions of Christmas magic, unless your idea of seasonal cheer involves an upset stomach and sticky gloves.

Kitsch to an Art Form 

Elsewhere in Europe, things look rather different.

In Germany, Christmas markets are practically a religion, entire towns transformed into glowing forests of fairy lights and gingerbread, the air thick with cinnamon, roasted almonds and choral singing. Vienna? They’ve elevated festive kitsch into an art form, snow-dusted stalls, orchestras playing Strauss, and enough glühwein to power the city’s trams.

Even Zagreb, just up the motorway, has managed to transform Advent into a full-blown international attraction, with award-winning chalets, live performances, and steaming sausages that don’t taste like they’ve been flown in on a budget airline.

And then there’s Dubrovnik.

The festive stands are passé. Too rustic, too sausage-centric, too beneath the marble dignity of the Stradun. Instead, local restaurants will drag out extra tables and chairs, perhaps even inventing a “Festival Burger” or a dish tailor-made for December.

Picture it: candlelit burgers and pasta dishes on a UNESCO-protected promenade, with tourists Instagramming their carbonara while a choir belts out “Silent Night.” Dickens himself would weep, though perhaps with laughter rather than sentiment.

Extend The Season 

The idea, we’re told, is to create a natural buzz on the Stradun, with proper catering facilities, places with actual sanitary facilities, no less, and to give year-round restaurateurs a chance to extend their season.

It’s being billed as a “pilot project,” an original Dubrovnik experiment that no one else has dared try. Apparently, it’s all about “authenticity.” A bold word in a city where authenticity often comes vacuum-packed and served with a garnish of Game of Thrones trivia.

But let’s not be too cynical.

On paper, the move does make a kind of sense. Why clutter one of the most beautiful streets in Europe with plywood boxes selling reheated wurst when the city already has dozens of professional kitchens and staff within arm’s reach?

At least this way, visitors will sit at proper tables, use proper cutlery, and perhaps even be offered a napkin that hasn’t blown down from the Franciscan Monastery.

Is It a Bad Idea? 

Tourism, we are reminded endlessly, is an experience.

And there’s no denying this will be one.

Whether it’s the kind of experience locals had in mind when they pictured a winter festival is another question.

But then again, this is Dubrovnik: where summer brings Game of Thrones cosplay tours, autumn delivers folklore festivals, and winter will now feature the world’s first Christmas market with table service.

And if you were thinking of enjoying your festive feed perched on the polished stone steps of St. Blaise’s, think again. The festival is meant to be “civilised” this year, and nothing says civilisation quite like a laminated menu tucked under a Christmas garland.

So, is it a bad idea?

Honestly, no.

The whole winter festival project is generally to be praised.

At least it tries to extend life in a city that too often shutters itself the moment the last cruise ship sails away. And any step away from those God-awful festive stands will be a step in the right direction. Dubrovnik has tried the plastic hotdog route. Now it’s trying the café route.

Who knows, maybe one day we’ll get to the mulled wine-and-gingerbread standard of Vienna.

Until then, bundle up, take your seat on the Stradun, and toast the season in true Dubrovnik style: with irony, with spectacle, and with an espresso machine steaming merrily in the background.

Maybe Dubrovnik’s Winter Festival won’t rival Vienna’s splendour or Munich’s efficiency, but it will at least be uniquely ours, a café-table Christmas, Stradun-style.

And in the end, as Winston Churchill once noted, “To improve is to change; to be perfect is to change often.”

Dubrovnik, it seems, has taken that to heart.

Read more Englishman in Dubrovnik…well, if you really want to

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

About the author

Mark Thomas (aka Englez u Dubrovniku) is the editor of The Dubrovnik Times. He was born and educated in the UK and moved to live in Dubrovnik in 1998. He works across a whole range of media, from a daily radio show to TV and in print. Thomas is fluent in Croatian and this column is available in Croatia on the website – Dubrovnik Vjesnik

From headline concerts to airport milestones, this week’s most popular stories show what’s capturing Dubrovnik’s attention — music, tourism, connectivity, and local culture. Here are the five stories readers couldn’t get enough of:

1. Dubrovnik Winter Festival Returns: Dino Merlin to Headline New Year’s Eve

Why it’s trending: The return of the 12th Dubrovnik Winter Festival has everyone excited. Running from November 29 to January 3, 2026, the festival promises a stretch of festive joy across the city. The highlight? A New Year’s Eve concert on Stradun featuring regional superstar Dino Merlin and rising talent Hiljson Mandela. With a lineup including Doris Dragović, Vanna, Parni Valjak, and more, plus family events, workshops, ice rinks, and holiday spectacles, this is Dubrovnik’s most ambitious winter cultural program yet. The Dubrovnik Times

2. Port of Dubrovnik Remains Croatia’s Top Cruise Destination

What you need to know: Despite imposing strict regulations designed to limit environmental impact and preserve the Old City’s charm — including a rule limiting the number of large cruise vessels docked simultaneously — Dubrovnik still leads Croatia in foreign cruise ship arrivals. The Port Authority reports that September and October are already fully booked, and they plan to maintain momentum through year-end. The Dubrovnik Times

3. easyJet Cuts Dubrovnik–Berlin Route for Summer 2026

What’s changing: Budget carrier easyJet has announced that it will discontinue its summer route between Dubrovnik and Berlin (as well as several other routes from Zadar) for the 2026 season. The cut affects nearly 4,000 seats per week across Croatia. For many, this means fewer direct flight options — an inconvenience, especially in peak travel season. But it also underscores how airlines are adjusting their route strategies based on demand and seasonality. The Dubrovnik Times

4. Art & Craft Festival in Dubrovnik’s Lazareti Showcases Local Creativity and Tradition

Culture spotlight: On September 16–17, Lazareti will come alive with an Art & Craft Festival hosted by the NGO DEŠA Dubrovnik under the project TUI Colourful Cultures Croatia. It’s a showcase of handmade goods, traditional and contemporary craft, workshops (weaving, embroidery, etc.), and a chance to support local artisans. Free admission, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Slowly, these kinds of events are helping to define Dubrovnik as more than just a summer destination — they’re giving glimpses of year-round culture. The Dubrovnik Times

5. Dubrovnik Airport Achieves Fourth Straight Record Month With Over 2 Million Passengers

Incredible growth: Dubrovnik’s Ruđer Bošković Airport continues its hot streak. In August, passenger numbers were up ~2.4% compared to August last year, and aircraft operations also rose. Cargo traffic? It surged by around 540% compared with August 2024. This marks four consecutive record-breaking months for the airport — a sign not only of summer demand but of increasing resilience and potential for broader connectivity. The Dubrovnik Times

With a warm smile and an energy that never seems to fade, Kristina Obuljen is one of the first people visitors meet when they step up to the Dubrovnik Cable Car. For her, every day on the job is a new story: a blend of early morning preparations, the rush of curious travellers, and the satisfaction of seeing guests’ faces light up as they soar above the Old City.

Kristina is more than just a ticket officer, she’s part of a small, close-knit team that keeps this iconic attraction running seamlessly. In her own words, she shares what it’s really like to work on the “front line” of one of Dubrovnik’s most beloved experiences.

 You have very much a “front line” position at the cable car, what does your role cover?

We’re a small but versatile team. My main role is at the ticket office, but I also help on the floor or wherever else I’m needed. You really have to be ready for anything up here. There are three of us on what you call the “front line” in the ticket office We support each other to keep things running smoothly, especially when someone falls ill or needs time off. It’s a very tight knit team and we’re always on hand to help our guests with whatever they require.

How does a typical working day look for you?

I like to arrive a little before 8:15, to check that everything is prepared from the previous shift. I switch on the systems, go through emails, check bookings, and share a coffee with my colleagues. By 8:50 the doors open, and often there’s already a group waiting outside. By nine, the first cabin is already heading up to the top of Srđ. And from that point, it’s non-stop: individual visitors, groups, calls, emails, refunds, and explaining closures when the weather turns against us.

Photo - Mark Thomas/Dubrovnik Cable Car 

Nobody can predict the wind or the rain, only God knows that, so sometimes we have to close at short notice. But thankfully these cases are quite rare and we always make sure to inform all our guests in a timely manner. Communication, or rather quick and clear communication, is the key. We direct them to check our website or call our information line for real-time updates. There’s also an app they can use to see instantly whether we’re open or closed.

Which months are the busiest?

July and August, without question. But they’re also the most unpredictable, because we welcome such a mix of visitors. Families, young people, elderly guests, everyone comes at once, and the sheer volume means we need to on our game all the time. Personally, I love working in spring and autumn, when the atmosphere is calmer and the guests are more relaxed.

Languages must be a challenge. How do you manage?

English is no problem, I spent a year in London, so I’m comfortable with it. I also understand German quite well, having spent time there, and I can manage with Italian. Sometimes we even communicate with hands and feet, but we always get by. What matters most is keeping things positive. Guests sense your energy straight away, even if they don’t understand your words.

If you smile, laugh, and stay calm, the whole exchange changes.

How do you cope with the intensity of the job?

It’s true, this work demands 101% concentration. When I’m at the desk, I don’t want phone calls or distractions. You have to give your full attention to guests. It can be exhausting, but I make a conscious effort to stay positive, to joke, and to laugh. If I let the stress show, guests pick up on it straight away.

Have you had any situations where visitors are afraid to use the cable car?

I have to be honest and say that not very many at all. Sometimes, yes — and more often it’s men than women. Sometimes husbands wait at the bottom while their wives and children go up. It’s rare, but it does happen.

So what keeps you motivated through it all?

The people. Every day brings something new: new faces, new questions, new little adventures. Yes, it can be stressful, but it’s also rewarding. Being the first point of contact for so many visitors to Dubrovnik is a privilege. When I see their faces light up as they look out from the top of Srđ, I know all the effort is worth it.

After successfully easing congestion around the historic Old City with a special traffic zone, Dubrovnik is now preparing wider measures to reduce traffic pressure across the city. Central to this plan is the construction of a large Park&Ride system at Pobrežje, set to become the backbone of the city’s parking strategy.

Mayor Mato Franković confirmed that the public procurement process for the project will begin in September, with construction to be carried out in two phases. “Our goal is to have more than a thousand parking spaces at Pobrežje to serve the Park&Ride system, which will become the core of Dubrovnik’s parking network,” said Franković.

The mayor stressed that all on-street parking spaces within the city — from Kantafig to Orsula — will be reserved exclusively for residents. “Tourists will be encouraged to use the Pobrežje Park&Ride, which will offer them the easiest, most efficient, and most convenient way to reach the city by public transport,” he added.

Franković also revealed changes in how municipal company Sanitat will enforce parking rules. Instead of inspectors on foot, the city is introducing vehicles equipped with cameras to scan license plates. Fines will no longer be left on windshields but sent directly to home addresses.

“With Park&Ride in place, people will have no reason to gamble with illegal parking or daily fines. The alternative will be clear — leave your car at Pobrežje and enter the city comfortably by bus,” said the mayor.

Credit rating agency Standard & Poor’s (S&P) has reaffirmed Croatia’s long-term credit rating at ‘A-’ and its short-term rating at ‘A-2’, both with a positive outlook, the Croatian government announced on Saturday. The confirmation signals renewed international confidence in the stability of Croatia’s public finances and prospects for continued economic growth.

According to S&P, Croatia’s solid economic and trade performance is expected to continue despite global challenges. The positive outlook indicates a possibility of a further upgrade in the country’s rating, provided fiscal responsibility and structural reforms remain on track.

The report also highlights the importance of political stability, noting that policy continuity under the ruling HDZ’s third consecutive parliamentary mandate provides strong momentum for reforms and government priorities.

“Maintaining a credit rating at the A level is proof of international confidence and a positive signal to investors. It reflects responsible public finance management, stable economic growth, and effective use of EU funds. S&P once again underlines the importance of political stability, which has been key to many of the government’s achievements. Our policies will remain focused on raising living standards, reducing inflationary pressures, and driving Croatia’s economic development,” said Prime Minister Andrej Plenković.

Croatia on Friday joined 142 countries in voting for a resolution adopted by the UN General Assembly aimed at giving fresh momentum to a two-state solution for the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.

The text, prepared by France and Saudi Arabia, passed with 142 votes in favour, 10 against – including Israel and the United States – and 12 abstentions. Hungary was the only European country to vote against.

The seven-page declaration calls for an end to the war in Gaza and a just, peaceful, and lasting resolution to the conflict, while explicitly condemning Hamas and demanding that the group lay down its weapons. It states: “We condemn the attacks committed by Hamas on October 7 against civilians” and insists that “Hamas must release all hostages” held in Gaza.

Israel sharply rejected the resolution, with Foreign Ministry spokesman Oren Marmorstein denouncing it on X as “a shameful decision” and “a political circus detached from reality.” He argued that the text ignores Hamas’s role in prolonging the war by refusing to surrender hostages or disarm.

The so-called “New York Declaration” stems from a July UN conference on the decades-long conflict, co-hosted by Saudi Arabia and France, which Israel and the United States boycotted. It envisions, in the context of a future ceasefire, the deployment of a temporary international stabilisation mission in Gaza under a UN Security Council mandate to protect civilians, support Palestinian state-building, and provide “security guarantees to both Palestine and Israel.”

Currently, about three-quarters of UN member states recognise Palestine as a state. Following French President Emmanuel Macron’s announcement, several other countries have signalled their intention to do so during the UN General Assembly session that opens on September 22 – a move seen as additional pressure on Israel to end the war in Gaza, which began after Hamas’s October 7, 2023 attacks.

The City of Dubrovnik has signed two major contracts for the co-financing of strategic urban projects through the Integrated Territorial Investment (ITU) mechanism, aimed at improving traffic flow and expanding green infrastructure.

Mayor Mato Franković and Deputy Mayor Velibor Puzović, acting as heads of the Intermediate Body for the Selection of Operations (PTOO) Dubrovnik, signed the agreements today. The contracts were formally handed over on behalf of the Ministry of Regional Development and EU Funds by State Secretary Zrinka Raguž.

The “Park’n’ride Dubrovnik” project has been awarded €5.97 million in non-repayable EU funds. The investment covers the construction of 572 parking spaces and two passenger terminals at Pobrežje, designed for bus boarding and drop-off. Once completed, the project will reduce traffic congestion in the historic city core by restricting vehicle access to the contact zone around the Old City to local residents only.

In addition, a contract was signed to co-finance the City’s own share in the EU-funded project “Green Infrastructure Network: Gradac, Pile, and Platana Parks”, worth €527,391.12, which represents half of the amount the City must contribute from its own budget. Previously, Dubrovnik secured an agreement for €6.61 million in EU funds, of which €5.56 million was provided through the ITU mechanism under the Integrated Territorial Programme 2021–2027. Works in Gradac and Pile parks are already underway, while procurement for construction in Platana Park is ongoing.

“All of our strategic projects are aimed at making everyday life for our citizens more comfortable and of higher quality. By investing in traffic solutions such as the Park’n’ride system, we are reducing congestion and protecting our historic core, while the renovation and revitalisation of city parks creates green oases for socialising, recreation, and relaxation. This is the best way to transform European funds into tangible benefits for our citizens,” said Mayor Franković.

The Croatian National Tourist Board (HTZ) has published a public call for the selection and appointment of directors (m/f) of its overseas representative offices in two markets: France, with headquarters in Paris, and Benelux, with headquarters in Brussels. Applications for the call, which is published on HTZ’s official website, are open until September 27, 2025, and can only be submitted by email.

“The tenders for the director positions in France and the Benelux countries have been reopened solely due to an insufficient number of high-quality applications. It is our duty to ensure that key positions abroad are filled with the best possible candidates, as they represent Croatia in important source markets. These countries are of strategic importance for Croatian tourism, and that is why we want to be certain that we will have the best possible representatives,” said Kristjan Staničić, Director of HTZ, adding that the new directors will be appointed for a four-year term.

Some of the requirements for applying include at least four years of managerial experience in tourism or tourism marketing, or at least six years of managerial work experience in general; knowledge of one and familiarity with another foreign language or the language of the tourist market for which the office is responsible; knowledge of the relevant tourist market; and more. Candidates must also submit a proposed four-year activity plan for the representative office with their application.

@croatiafulloflife

Sun, sea, and total freedom ???????? This is what slowing down looks like in Croatia. Show us your pomalo moments — how do you unwind? ????????#findyourpomalo

♬ Clocks (Piano Instrumental) - Piano Queen