“When was the first time you wrote about Kupari being redeveloped,” asked my wife. She had just come back from a walk with the dogs in their favourite spot and work had started on the demolition of the former hotels. Over ten years ago was the answer.
It has stood empty as a reminder darker days and as a memorial to incompetency.
And after all the false dawns, and there have been more false dawns than a weather forecaster with a broken radar, we finally have some movement. I am not saying that this project is going to produce anything concrete, we’ve had too many broken promises already, but to see people actually working is promising.
In fact, the owner of the Singaporean company that has acquired Kupari is currently fighting in court in a corruption case in which he has been accused of bribing a government minister. So he should fit in really well here.
“I am kind of 50/50 about the new resort,” said my wife. I knew what she meant. In a selfish way the sheer ineptitude of authorities has given us some of the best beaches. As well as the added bonus of a beach that dogs can use.
Now we have had the reassurances that after the resort is finished we will be able to continue to use the beach. Pardon me for being deeply suspicious, but experience has taught me that this will not be the case. We might have a honeymoon period of a year (if we are lucky), but after that local people on the beach will be as welcome as wasps at a picnic.
There have been promises that areas and access will still be public. Don’t believe them.
Don’t get me wrong, I understand it from the investor’s side. Pumping in millions of dollars to make an exclusive 5-star resort and then the beach is packed like a can of sardines, well that just doesn’t seem like a good investment at all.
Like I said we have seen it all before, over and over again, so just be honest with us from the start.
On the other hand, the most successful form of tourism in recent years is the “local experience” one. It’s now all about getting to know the local community, the traditions, the culture, the gastronomy…and if it’s possible to do this in a sustainable manner, even better. I doubt very much that this Kupari resort will be a “get to know the locals” tourism.
In many ways the current security fences and guards as you enter Kupari are a reflection of what will be in the future.
“But don’t forget all the new jobs that the new hotels will offer,” said my wife looking for a positive spin.
True.
But who the hell will work there? We don’t have enough workers (of all professions) to handle a normal tourist season now. We “import” more than 5,000 seasonal workers just to cover all the positions. Do we know import more workers for the future Kupari?
Weirdly we don’t even need more tourists.
We are at saturation point.
The tourist season that we have now is far too much for us to handle.
So why are we building another resort? Good question. Probably because tourism is the first thing that pops into our minds when we think about investment, especially foreign investment.
Getting creative, thinking outside of the box, well that’s just out of our comfort zone.
So what happens next? Well, the script is already written. The developers will unveil glossy renderings of infinity pools, sleek modern rooms, and carefully curated "local" experiences—probably a cooking class making dishes no local has actually eaten in decades.
There will be ribbon-cutting ceremonies, politicians will pat themselves on the back, and articles will be written about how Kupari is finally rising from the ashes. Then reality will kick in.
Prices will be astronomical, marketed towards a clientele more familiar with the Maldives than the Adriatic. Local businesses will be squeezed out as the resort attempts to keep its guests inside the perimeter, ensuring that every euro stays within its walls.
The once-open beaches will mysteriously develop “private property” signs, and security will subtly discourage anyone without a platinum credit card from lingering too long.
Maybe they’ll throw in a few local craftspeople selling overpriced souvenirs for authenticity, but you can bet that the only real locals left in Kupari will be the ones cleaning the rooms.
Read more Englishman in Dubrovnik…well, if you really want to
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About the author
Mark Thomas (aka Englez u Dubrovniku) is the editor of The Dubrovnik Times. He was born and educated in the UK and moved to live in Dubrovnik in 1998. He works across a whole range of media, from a daily radio show to TV and in print. Thomas is fluent in Croatian and this column is available in Croatia on the website – Dubrovnik Vjesnik