Cities have a way to stay in our memories. Having spent most of my life in Mexico City, I have branded in my memory mostly its noise: vendors in the street yelling sale prices and good deals, "todo a 5" (everything costs $5), "llévelo, llévelo" (buy it, buy it), "pásele güerita" (take a look)... the public transport, could be metro or bus, and the motorcycles cutting thru the traffic. It is an almost deafening experience.
Food stall of esquites and elotes - Photo - Alejandra Gotóo
Food vendors are everywhere; thus, you can easily find anything, from breakfast to dinner and all the snacks in between. This bustling street scene is defined by the constant calls from food vendors, enticing passersby to stop and eat. My favorite sound, and probably one of the most iconic, is the whistle for tamales oaxaqueños, and plantains. Remember to be quick; that sound is from blocks away, so you need to chase it to get your food. They are mainly out in the late afternoon to early night.
Mexico City can sometimes be too much, fast, and loud. But because of that, it is a melting pot of cultures. A fundamental part of culture is food. Thus, let me mention some restaurants in Downtown Mexico City that deserve to be visited.
Mexico City Downtown, view of the cathedral - Photo - Alejandra Gotóo
La Jercey, Mercado de San Juan
This old and tiny local is inside a market. La Jercey is well known for its cold meats, baguettes, tapas, cheeses, and, my favorite, the salsas. There are 4-7 salsas for you to try; they have grasshopper-morita, mango-habanero, tamarind-chipotle, etc. The salsas change with the seasons, so I recommend you ask the chef's recommendation.
The last time I went there, I ate a classic baguette with tamarind and chipotle salsa. I recommend it. These baguettes are sold whole or by quarter. There was also a zapote-based salsa. Zapote is a fruit native to southern Mexico and Central America. Its name comes from the Nahuatl word tzapotl, which means sweet fruit. There are several varieties of zapote, including mamey, white, canistel, purple, etc. The black variety tastes similar to chocolate.
La Jercey, Mercado de San Juan - Photo - Alejandra Gotóo
If you are sensitive, be cautious when visiting this market. It is a market, so it might have butchers doing their jobs. You can easily avoid this by going directly to the prepared food section. But if you are feeling adventurous, Mercado de San Juan is the place to go, as it offers exotic meats. You can find lion, crocodile, and kangaroo meat.
This place is originally from Oaxaca City. The menu is traditional, tasty, and cheap (around 10 USD per person for a complete meal). I recommend the black mole. It is my favorite since it has an undertone of chocolate and is mostly not spicy. I love tlayudas, aka Mexican pizzas. Sometimes, café de olla is available on the menu. This particular coffee preparation includes a clay pot, piloncillo, and cinnamon. There, you can also find pan de nata, not my choice, but my mom's, and you should always trust her; she is an authentic Mexican woman who cooks, loves, and experiences life in a unique way.
Mercado decorations during Christmas - Photo - Alejandra Gotóo
This restaurant could be described as a snobbish place. It is slightly more expensive, costing around 20-25 dollars per person. It has been a while since I have been there. I remember the enchiladas; they were good, and the place was lovely. I recommend this place for a breakfast date if you want to get extra points. Nothing yells "I am into you" more than, "Here is some delicious food." Please go to the second floor; it is more peaceful.
Mexico City's bustling streets, vibrant sounds, and diverse flavors hold a special place in my heart and memories. Despite its sometimes overwhelming noise and pace, the city's culinary richness makes it a must-visit destination. From the eclectic offerings at La Jercey in Mercado de San Juan to the traditional delights of El Mayordomo, there's something for every palate to explore in Downtown Mexico City. So, next time you find yourself in this vibrant metropolis, be sure to take a culinary journey through its streets and savor the unique flavors.
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Alejandra Gotóo (Mexico City, 1991) writes to explain herself the world where she inhabits. Her work has been published in Spain, Mexico, Chile, Colombia, Peru, and Croatia. She holds a master's degree in Social Anthropology and a bachelor's degree in English Literature. Nowadays, she is a columnist in Dubrovnik Times. She has two published novels, Ruptura and Isadore or Absolute Love. Her topics of interest include nature, adventure, language, books, food, culture, animals, conservation, and women's rights. She also writes in her blog: Cardinal Humours.