Friday, 07 November 2025
Mark Thomas

Mark Thomas

Mark Thomas - The editor and big chief of The Dubrovnik Times. Born in the UK he has been living and working in Dubrovnik since 1998, yes he is one of the rare “old hands.” A unique insight into both British and Croatian life and culture, Mark is often known as just “Englez” or Englishman. He is a traveller, a current affairs freak and a huge AFC Wimbledon fan.

Email: mark.thomas@dubrovnik-times.com

For the first time in years, Croatia is in a demographic positive trend, according to new data published by the Croatian Bureau of Statistics (DZS). Between June and September 2025, around 650 more babies were born compared to the same period last year — a rare piece of good news amid long-standing concerns over population decline.

The increase comes as Croatia continues to grapple with demographic challenges, an aging population, and youth emigration, all of which have contributed to steady depopulation in recent decades.

These issues were in focus at a conference marking the progress of the two-year national project “Establishing a Strategic, Legislative and Institutional Framework for the Demographic Revitalisation of Croatia.” The initiative brings together government representatives, experts, and international partners to create concrete tools and policies aimed at reversing negative demographic trends.

The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) is also participating in the project, assessing Croatia’s legislative and policy framework for demographic development and preparing recommendations to support future reforms.

While experts caution that one strong quarter does not signal a long-term reversal, the data has been welcomed as a hopeful sign that ongoing national efforts to support families and improve living standards may be beginning to show results.

Brazil has officially expressed interest in playing a friendly match against Croatia in March 2026 as part of its preparations for the upcoming FIFA World Cup in North America, confirmed Rodrigo Caetano, coordinator of Brazil’s men’s national teams, reports sportklub

Speaking to Brazilian media, Caetano outlined the national team’s World Cup preparation plans ahead of the tournament, which will take place in June 2026 in Canada, the United States, and Mexico.

“In March, during the FIFA international window, we want to play against European teams. The opponents will be decided once the European qualifiers are over, but we would like to face France and Croatia,” said Caetano, as reported by O Dia.

According to Brazilian outlets, the five-time world champions are expected to meet France on March 28 in Foxborough, USA, followed by a match against Croatia on March 31 in Orlando. These venues, however, have not yet been officially confirmed.

The match would mark a highly anticipated rematch following Croatia’s dramatic penalty shootout victory over Brazil in the 2022 World Cup quarter-finals in Qatar — a result that ended Brazil’s campaign and cemented Croatia’s reputation as one of world football’s toughest tournament opponents.

Brazil’s current head coach, Carlo Ancelotti, who until recently managed Croatian captain Luka Modrić at Real Madrid, will be looking to restore the Selecão’s dominance on the global stage. Brazil qualified for the World Cup as fifth in the South American group, finishing behind Argentina, Ecuador, Colombia, and Uruguay.

Following their March friendlies against European rivals, Brazil will continue preparations in June at their traditional training base in Teresópolis, about 90 kilometres from Rio de Janeiro. The team is also expected to play a farewell match at the Maracanã Stadium, designed to “strengthen the bond with fans” before heading to the World Cup.

“We plan to play one more friendly before travelling to the World Cup and to conclude our preparations with another test in the United States,” Caetano added.

If confirmed, the Brazil–Croatia encounter in Orlando would not only serve as a crucial test for both sides ahead of the 2026 World Cup but also rekindle one of the most memorable rivalries of recent international football.

@hns.family VAR provjera: ruka ili rame? ???? #HNSfamily #Vatreni #Gvardiol ♬ c7epic - orijinal ses - c7epic

For the first time in its history, Dubrovnik’s Ruđer Bošković Airport has surpassed three million passengers in a single year, marking a historic milestone that confirms the airport’s record-breaking growth and the city’s position as one of Europe’s most desirable destinations.

The three-millionth passenger, Kerstin Gams from Austria, arrived on Austrian Airlines flight OS623 from Vienna with her family for a holiday in Dubrovnik. She was warmly welcomed by airport representatives, who presented her with special gifts and a flight voucher from Dubrovnik Airport. Additional prizes were provided by the Dubrovnik Tourist Board, Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board, Rixos Premium Dubrovnik, Rewind Dubrovnik, and Aura, showcasing the city’s trademark hospitality.

Airport Director Viktor Šober described the achievement as a historic and symbolic moment for southern Croatia.

“It gives me great pleasure to celebrate the arrival of our three-millionth passenger – a historic moment that confirms a highly successful and record year for Dubrovnik Airport, the second in a row after 2024,” said Šober.
“This milestone would not have been possible without the dedication of our employees, the trust of our passengers, and the cooperation of our many partners — the City of Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik-Neretva County, airlines, the tourism sector, and the local community. Dubrovnik is now more connected to Europe and the world than ever before, and that is the best proof of our shared vision and teamwork.”

The airport’s achievement reflects steady passenger growth throughout 2025, with record results from May to September. The positive trend is expected to continue into the upcoming winter months.

Coinciding with this historic milestone, Dubrovnik Airport has also introduced its new winter flight schedule, expanding connections and strengthening year-round accessibility. In November, Dubrovnik remains linked with Dublin, Manchester, Madrid, London, and Zurich, while new routes to Rome, Frankfurt, and Vienna have been added. Regular flights to Brussels and Warsaw also continue, ensuring Dubrovnik stays well connected through the off-season.

Dubrovnik’s streets will turn into a showcase of vintage automotive beauty this Saturday, November 8, as the Oldtimer Club Dubrovnik hosts its traditional Oldtimer Rally, expected to draw a record 100 crews from across Europe.

The event begins at 8:30 a.m. with the gathering of participants at the Port of Gruž parking area, followed by the first stage starting at 10 a.m. The convoy of classic cars will drive through Gruž, along Dr. Ante Starčević and Vladimir Nazor streets, continuing via the main road to Brgat and on to Mount Srđ.

Around noon, the second stage will take the participants from Srđ down to Dubrovnik’s historic Old City, where the vehicles will be displayed on Stradun and in front of the Rector’s Palace until sunset.

Classic Cars to Take Over Dubrovnik for Annual Oldtimer Rally 1

This year’s rally welcomes drivers not only from Croatia and neighbouring countries, but also from Germany, Poland, and Romania. Participants will enjoy a rich accompanying programme, including visits to the Rector’s Palace, the Homeland War Museum, and the Red History Museum, as well as exhibitions such as “The History of Dubrovnik’s Tram,” “Babin Kuk: Planning Utopia,” and “Banksy in Dubrovnik.”

The Dubrovnik Oldtimer Rally, part of the official calendar of the Croatian Oldtimer Federation, traditionally marks the end of the vintage car season. Positioned between the summer months and the Dubrovnik Winter Festival, it also serves as a unique tourism event that promotes the city as an attractive destination for historic vehicle gatherings.

Classic Cars to Take Over Dubrovnik for Annual Oldtimer Rally 2

The rally is supported by the City of Dubrovnik and the Dubrovnik Tourist Board and will take place on public roads with the assistance of traffic police and city wardens, ensuring safety without disrupting regular traffic. Organisers have noted that registration is full, and no additional entries will be accepted on the day of the event.

“You know when they are sober, they like to think they’re closer to being Austrians — cool, calm and calculated. But give them a few drinks and the veil of Alpine aloofness drops pretty quickly, and a Balkan background jumps to the fore,” joked a Croatian friend who now calls Slovenia home.

“So basically they go from Mozart to Mate Bulić in the space of a few rakijas,” I replied. She smiled knowingly.

And so begins our annual pilgrimage to our quirky northern neighbours. It’s becoming something of a ritual: escaping the off-season blues of southern Croatia, piling into a campervan, and setting the compass for “up.”

From Dubrovnik to the Alps Finding Peace Mud and Mozart in Slovenias Off Season 4

The four of us — two humans and two dogs — head north, into a land that looks like it’s been sketched by a sentimental chocolatier. Every mountain pass we zig-zag around reveals a view that could easily be a backdrop for a Milka advert. Purple cows wouldn’t look out of place. A miniature Switzerland, but with more personality.

Is there another country so small yet so overflowing with variety?

Slovenia feels like a prototype that went unexpectedly right. It’s as if the Alps and the Adriatic had a weekend fling and nine months later this perfectly balanced child appeared — half mountain stoicism, half Mediterranean mischief.

From Dubrovnik to the Alps Finding Peace Mud and Mozart in Slovenias Off Season 1

The first thing that strikes you are what I call the three F’s: flowers, façades and fields. Not a single house misses any of them. Even the tiniest cottages look like they’ve been prepped for an architectural digest cover shoot. Flowers spill from every window box with the precision of a military parade. Which, of course, can’t be said south of the border.

Cross into Croatia and façades start peeling faster than sunburn on a British tourist.

“The phrase ‘hidden gem’ gets thrown around a lot in tourism,” I tell my wife as we sip coffee from the campervan, parked beside a lake so turquoise it looks Photoshopped. “Mostly rather misguidedly.” But Slovenia, as far as I can see, is a hidden gem — or at least a discreetly tucked-away diamond between louder neighbours.

“So you guys are from Croatia,” asked a campsite owner one evening.

“Yes, Dubrovnik, to be precise,” my wife replied.

“Ah,” she smiled, “so you’re enjoying life without the crowds a little.”

She wasn’t wrong. And we were also enjoying Slovenian prices.

From Dubrovnik to the Alps Finding Peace Mud and Mozart in Slovenias Off Season 2

So there we were — modern nomads, carrying our home on our backs like overgrown snails, navigating roads that were clearly designed for medieval horse carts rather than 7-metre motorhomes. A fact that hasn’t been lost on my wife. I now bear a series of permanent finger-shaped bruises on my right arm, the result of her reflexive need to cling to me during every tight Alpine bend.

“How is that likely to save you?” I asked.

“Clinging to me? I’m pretty sure if the van goes, we all go.”

She ignored me.

And as if the narrow mountain roads weren’t enough, she’s developed a new and particularly grating habit: narrating every single speed limit sign we pass.

“It says 40 and you’re going 45.” I am haunted by her voice in my sleep. In future dreams, angels will likely hover beside me holding “Speed limit 40” placards.

But truth be told, it’s massive fun.

We’re seeing new places, meeting new people, and solving new challenges on an hourly basis — usually involving toilets, electricity, or the sudden appearance of mountain goats. It’s freedom distilled.

From Dubrovnik to the Alps Finding Peace Mud and Mozart in Slovenias Off Season 3

The dogs, meanwhile, have taken to van life as if they’d trained for it. Wilma stares out of the window with philosophical calm, while Toto spends his days inventing new ways to tangle his leash in Slovenian shrubbery. They, too, are converts to the off-season escape.

Which got me thinking — as I scraped mud off my boots and my dignity — is the off-season the new in-season?

We’re conditioned to believe travel is about sunshine and schedules. That it must be framed by school holidays, predictable weather, and the promise of “buzz.” Yet here we are, in the middle of autumn, wandering half-empty campsites, drinking red wine by a misty lake, and having the best time we’ve had all year.

When the crowds have fled, when the queues vanish and the locals have time to talk — that’s when a place reveals its true self. It’s like seeing a friend without their makeup on and realising they’re actually more beautiful that way.

Unless you want to talk about the First Lady and then most people seem a little embarrassed and quickly change the subject.

Well, you can’t blame them.

From Dubrovnik to the Alps Finding Peace Mud and Mozart in Slovenias Off Season 5

Slovenia in the off-season feels alive in an unhurried, authentic way. No bus tours, no cruise-ship time limits, no one photographing a plate of food before eating it. Just quiet, crisp air and the gentle sound of cowbells echoing off the mountains.

By the end of our two-week snail-like adventure, our campervan smelled faintly of wet dog, coffee, and existential contentment. My wife’s speed-limit narrations had softened into humming. The dogs had discovered the joy of ice-swimming for the first time.

And I, somewhere between a mountain pass and a bottle of local wine, had found something that felt suspiciously like peace. Because travel, at its best, isn’t about ticking boxes or collecting likes.

It’s about rediscovering perspective — and yourself — on the long and winding roads that don’t always lead home.

Read more Englishman in Dubrovnik…well, if you really want to

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About the author

Mark Thomas (aka Englez u Dubrovniku) is the editor of The Dubrovnik Times. He was born and educated in the UK and moved to live in Dubrovnik in 1998. He works across a whole range of media, from a daily radio show to TV and in print. Thomas is fluent in Croatian and this column is available in Croatia on the website – Dubrovnik Vjesnik

@dubrovnik_times Driving a camper though the Slovenian mountains #traveltiktok ##slovenia #slovenijatiktok #travel ♬ original sound - The Dubrovnik Times

According to data from the eVisitor system, the Dubrovnik-Neretva County recorded 176,844 tourist arrivals and 602,086 overnight stays in October 2025, remaining at nearly the same level as October last year.

The largest number of overnight stays came from visitors from the United Kingdom (135,324), followed by the United States (68,510), Germany (56,537), Croatia (31,844), and France (27,237).

Hotels remained the most popular form of accommodation, accounting for 343,213 overnight stays — about 57% of the total — while private accommodation made up 29%, with 172,152 overnight stays.

Nautical tourism showed notable growth: local marinas recorded 3,222 vessel arrivals, a 20% increase compared to October 2024, and 27,403 overnight stays, up 11% year-on-year.

From January to the end of October 2025, the county achieved 2.16 million arrivals and 8.78 million overnight stays, marking a 1.5% rise in arrivals and a 1% increase in overnights compared to the same period last year.

Currently, around 7,000 visitors are staying across the Dubrovnik-Neretva County, confirming the region’s enduring appeal well beyond the summer months.

@dubrovnik_times Entering into the Old City of Dubrovnik from the Ploce gate #adriatic #dubrovnik #croatia #traveltiktok ♬ original sound - The Dubrovnik Times

With the aim of encouraging tourist visits during the winter season, the Dubrovnik Tourist Board is once again organizing its traditional program Saturday Winter Mornings in Dubrovnik, which will run from the 8th of November, 2025, to the 28th of March, 2026, featuring folklore performances in front of the Church of St. Blaise.

The themed city tours will begin on the 8th of November taking place every Saturday — starting at 9:30 a.m. in English and 12:30 p.m. in Croatian, departing from the Tourist Information Centre (TIC) Pile.

TZ Subotnja jutra plakat 2025 2026 za web

 

During the month of November, the theme of the tours will be Cosmopolitan Dubrovnik. Once a Roman Catholic city where only Catholics were permitted to reside — with Jews allowed under special permission — Dubrovnik grew into a truly cosmopolitan centre. Within the city’s historic core one can find Catholic churches, an Orthodox church, a mosque, and one of the oldest active synagogues in Europe. Different faiths — Catholics, Orthodox Christians, Muslims, and Jews — have all left their mark on Dubrovnik’s history, while the Old City stands as lasting testimony to centuries of coexistence and tolerance.

After the guided themed tour with a professional guide, at 11:30 a.m. in front of the Church of St. Blaise, the Dubrovnik Tourist Board will offer visitors a folklore performance, which will not take place in case of bad weather.

More information about each themed city tour can be found on the Dubrovnik Tourist Board’s social media channels. Due to the limited number of participants, advance registration is required for these themed tours by emailing This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or calling +385 20 312 011, no later than Friday at 5:00 p.m.

@experiencedubrovnik A peaceful stroll through the quiet streets, no crowds, just you and the beauty of the Old Town. Perfect for recharging your soul. ???????? #experiencedubrovnik #croatiafulloflife #dubrovnik #dubrovnikriviera #dubrovnikneretvacounty #feelfreetodiscover #visitdubrovnik #dubrovnikoldtown #dubrovnikcroatia ♬ original sound - experiencedubrovnik

Dubrovnik will see more Air France flights next summer, as the airline increases its service between Paris and Dubrovnik for the 2026 summer season, reflecting continued strong demand for the route.

The French flag carrier will operate three weekly flights in May, June and September, up from two per week in 2025. During the peak summer months of July and August, Air France will maintain eleven weekly rotations, offering excellent connectivity between the Adriatic’s most famous walled city and the French capital, reports EX-YU Aviation

The expanded schedule strengthens Dubrovnik’s position as one of Croatia’s key air gateways, ensuring smoother access for French visitors and offering locals more convenient travel options to Paris and beyond via Charles de Gaulle Airport’s global network.

Across Croatia, Air France is also adding capacity to Zagreb, with up to fourteen weekly flights in July and August. However, Dubrovnik remains the airline’s top coastal destination, continuing to attract leisure travellers drawn by its UNESCO-listed beauty, film-famous streets, and growing reputation for year-round appeal.

@airfrance Ladies and gentlemen, please readjust your headphones to fully enjoy our AsmAir video displaying our Premium experience onboard ✈️ #AirFrance #AvGeek #premium ♬ son original - Air France

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