As forecast the heavens opened over Dubrovnik and literally flooded the whole city. We knew it was coming and yet it still caught people by surprise, after months and months of dry and sunny weather Dubrovnik got a months’ worth of rain in one day!

Roads flooded, traffic came to a standstill, drain covers burst open and one car was even spotted floating. The Old City of Dubrovnik looked more like Venice than the pearl of the Adriatic. The main street Stradun was under 30 cm of flood water as the side streets acted as waterfalls filling the main street.

Tourists and locals waded knee-deep in water. It certainly wasn’t the picture that the visitors to the south of Croatia thought they would experience. Although it is also probably an experience they will never forget.

The Dubrovnik Fire Brigade have had their hands full pumping out storm water from numerous buildings.

And if we are to believe the weather forecasters it looks like being a very unsettled week with more rain and storms on the way.

In a few days, the harvest of the earliest varieties of mandarins will begin in the Neretva Valley. According to initial estimates, this year's yield is slightly lower than last year's, with around 30,000 tons expected to be harvested. Producers are hoping for higher demand and better purchase prices. Although the vegetation, like with all fruit trees, started quite early, the quality of Neretva mandarins is not in question this year either, reports HRT.

The fruits are still green, and it looks like it will be an average season. The mandarin needs to achieve a good balance of juice and sugar to be of sufficient quality for the market.

“The quality of the fruit at this stage, about twenty to twenty-five days before harvest, is satisfactory, and all inspections indicate that this could be a good season in terms of fruit quality,” said Robert Doko, an agronomist.

They hope that the larger fruits, along with the smallest ones, which are processed into juices, will be more valued and paid for by producers because, as they say, it doesn’t always have to be waste, and all of it needs to be harvested. So far, imported labor has helped with the harvest, but due to the lower yield this year, less will be needed.

By mid-September, the earliest varieties will be placed on the market. They invite consumers to taste the mandarins because the flavor speaks for itself. Sour fruit will be the result of early harvesting by irresponsible individuals, which they expect will be controlled by the relevant authorities.

According to the eVisitor system, Dubrovnik welcomed 19,500 tourists last weekend, marking a 1% increase compared to the same period last year. The largest number of visitors in August came from the UK and the US, followed by tourists from Germany, France, Australia, Ireland, Spain, Poland, Canada, and Italy.

Since the start of 2024, the city has recorded over 1.033 million tourist arrivals and 3.32 million overnight stays, reflecting a 10% growth compared to the same period in 2023. This trend indicates a strong tourism season for Dubrovnik.

Tourism data for Konavle shows positive trends, according to the Municipality. In August, there was a 4.5 percent increase in arrivals and a 1.3 percent increase in overnight stays compared to August last year.

The increase in arrivals for the period from January to August is 6.2 percent, while the number of overnight stays increased by 9.8 percent. Traditionally, the largest number of overnight stays is made by tourists from the United Kingdom, followed by guests from France, Ireland, Poland, and Bosnia and Herzegovina.

“Moreover, the number of overnight stays for the first eight months of 2024 is 2.3 percent higher compared to the record year of 2019, which indicates that the final results of this year will be exceptionally successful,” the Municipality points out.

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I had the pleasure, and indeed it was a pleasure, to visit on of the rising stars on the Dubrovnik culinary map last week. It is a hidden gem, that is pretty much hidden in plain sight, right in the very heart of the historic Old City of Dubrovnik. And it was a dining experience that I will remember for a long time, all because of one dish, one meal, that was by far the best I have ever tried. I am talking about Bura Bistro, and read on for the meal that is an absolute must try!

Easy to find location - Photo - Mark Thomas 

So the Bura Bistro is one of those typical Dubrovnik restaurants that spill out onto the stone terraces and is surrounded by centuries-old façades. Located directly behind the cathedral (yes, it is very easy to find) in a vibrant square that is home to a number of cafés and bars. The whole bustling square gives you that real Dubrovnik eating experience and only adds to the flavour of the food.

I was greeted by the head chef, Ante Jonjic, who is clearly the driving force behind the imaginative menu. As we chatted his passion for food and ingredients shone though like a lighthouse. “I would recommend that you try a few dishes that I will prepare,” he smiled. He has the quiet confidence of someone who knows exactly what they are doing.

Creative plating by Chef Ante - Photo - Mark Thomas 

First impressions. Well, there were a few things that I liked. Firstly, and I know this is a small point, but the waiter’s uniforms were smart and professional. Secondly, clearly this restaurant was well-known amongst visitors as the seating area was a mix of languages. And lastly, the name. So for those of you who don’t know Bura is the name of a northerly wind that brings cold and clear weather with it. It is kind of a fitting name as the bistro has that clear and refreshing concept.

So onto the food. Ante was a man of his word. He produced a series of different meals for me to taste. The waiting staff were particularly attentive and friendly. And no, it wasn’t just because they knew I was a journalist, I closely followed (you could say eavesdropped) when they were serving tables near me. But it was the last dish that Chef created that blew me away.

Smoked Tuna and mango pizza - Photo Mark Thomas 

Now in my two decades of following the gastro scene in the south of Croatia I have tried this dish a thousand times, it is actually one of my favourites. It is typical dish from the Croatian coastline, probably because it contains seafood and fish. I always, if possible, like to promote “home-grown” dishes. This isn’t always that easy as times change and old meals are swept under the carpet. The meal that had me so excited was buzara, buzara at Bura Bistro.

Now at this point (for our foreign readers) I probably need to explain a little more as to what buzara is. Sometimes you’ll see it called a fish/seafood stew, it really isn’t. It is a method of preparing fish and seafood that is simple, and yet complicated at the same time. The word "buzara" traces its roots to the Venetian term for a cooking cauldron, traditionally used by fishermen to prepare their daily catch. In Dalmatia, it became synonymous with a coastal seafood delicacy, known for its versatility and the use of the freshest ingredients. Yes, the ingredients need to as fresh as possible, and at Bura Bistro they were so fresh. The seafood, shrimps, prawns, mussels, etc and fish pieces are cooked in a sauce. And that sauce is the absolute key.

The meal landed in front of me and made me chuckle as it was served in one of those saucepans your granny would use, absolutely brilliant. It looked and indeed smelt perfect. In fact, my mouth is watering just thinking about this buzara again. As I have already said the sauce is the key, and this sauce was, well it is difficult to put into words how superb it was. I will give you a couple of examples. With the buzara you get three triangles of baked bread (which are very nice) and I used these to mop up all the sauce! Secondly, I managed to splash the sauce all over my shirt (note to self: don’t wear a white shirt when eating buzara) and I really didn’t care. It wasn’t one of the best buzaras I had ever tried, it was THE best buzara I have ever tried. And I have tried many.

After I finished I sought out Chef to congratulate him. “Well done, that sauce is heaven sent,” I smiled. Apparently he used a sauce that was handed down through his family generations with some key ingredients. Again I congratulated him for respecting past generations and producing a meal that is a “must try” whilst you are in Dubrovnik.

And what a location to dine - Photo - Mark Thomas 

In conclusion, my experience at Bura Bistro was nothing short of extraordinary. The passion and expertise of Chef Ante Jonjic, combined with the fresh, flavourful ingredients and a sauce perfected through generations, made for an unforgettable meal. The buzara, served in a charmingly traditional way, stood out as the best I've ever tasted, embodying the essence of Dubrovnik’s rich culinary heritage. For anyone visiting the city, dining at Bura Bistro is an absolute must, offering an authentic taste of the Adriatic that lingers long after the meal is over.

Find more info here

Website – https://www.burabistro-dubrovnik.com/

Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/burabistrodubrovnik

Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/burabistrodubrovnik

It could well be a wet and wild day of weather today in the south of Croatia, indeed the whole of this week will see very unsettled weather with rain and storms. After four months of constantly clear skies and rising temperatures it looks like this week will bring a halt to that.

For the Dubrovnik region, the Croatian State Hydro Meteorological Institute has issued an orange weather warning, and the City of Dubrovnik is urging residents to take caution. “Throughout the day, there is a risk of gale-force winds and heavy rainfall, which may cause flash floods. All city services are on alert. We urge all our citizens to exercise extreme caution," announced the City of Dubrovnik on its website.