Dubrovnik was awaken this morning, the morning of the day of St Blaise, by the sounds of the Dubrovnik Musketeers as their salvos echoed around the ancient walls. The Dubrovnik Brass Band played on the Stradun and the church bells rang, the day of the patron saint of Dubrovnik was here.

The morning mass was held in the St. Blasie Church, a church filled with parishioners and banners. At 10 o’clock the mass began with the Papal Envoy, Cardinal Vinko Puljic.

The festivities of St. Blaise opened today with the traditional release of doves in front of St. Blaise Church and the raising the saint's flag on the Orlando Column. With the waving of banners, traditional songs and the applause from the gathered crowds the festivities of the patron saint of Dubrovnik have begun.

At the opening numerous telegrams from Dubrovnik expats from all over the world and seafarers from the city were read out to the massed crowds.

 On the eve of the most important day in Dubrovnik’s calendar, the Day of Saint Blaise on the 3rd of February, the city is decorated and prepared to celebrate their patron saint.

Photos - Tonci Plazibat 

The first time I saw it I was a little repulsed. I have to be honest. The Old City was packed, packed like tinned sardines. It felt like the New Years Eve millennium night. I tried to press my way to the front of the pack in a vain hope that I would see what everyone else was seeing. An elbow in the stomach, an umbrella in the back and quite a few apologetic words and I had made it to the front line. As it turned out being on the front line wasn’t the place to be…but how would I know that. Banners of all shapes and sizes waved in the sunshine. Colourful costumes filled the Stradun. It was an explosion of noise, colour and people. And then came the gold.

I could see it glinting in the sunlight. I can still remember thinking to this day “I wonder what they are carrying.” I still couldn’t quite make out what it was but I could see people from the crowd rushing to kiss it. Babies were lifted above the heads just to kiss the gold, pensioners pushed forward and embraced it, everyone in the front line took their turn. And then the turn came my way. Blimey that looks like someone’s head...and that looks like a bit of an arm...I’m not bloody kissing that. Everyone has slobbered their mouths around a golden arm and head and now it was my turn. Yes, this was my very first experience of the Day of St. Blaise.

I can remember it like it was only yesterday. The glittery body part held by a waiting priest in front of me in anticipation that I should kiss it. All I could remember at that time was a story that my wife had told me a few days before hand. “You know,” she started, “one of the most dangerous things to eat in a bar are the peanuts.” “How do you figure that out,” came my question. “Well, think of how many people touch those bowls of peanuts in one evening. Now if you bear in mind that only a half of men actually wash their hands when they go to the toilet then just think of all the bacteria transferred onto those peanuts,” she concluded. Yes, she was right, I mean I wash my hands, but probably I am one of the few. After she told me that little story I have never eaten peanuts in a bar again, unless I am blind drunk.

Now, as the dead golden arm of St. Blaise was presented in front of me to kiss all I could think about were peanuts in a bar. I quickly flicked my gaze down the rest of the front line and saw their solemn faces. The priest was getting slightly impatient. So I bent my face down. I made a huge, probably too huge, kissing noise and got as close to the shining arm without actually touching it. I remember the priest saying something, I am hoping it was a small prayer for me, but I have a feeling it was probably something along the lines of “disrespectful idiot.”

As I didn’t understand Croatian at the time I hope it was the first option, but I have my doubts. What a precious tradition the Day of St. Blaise is. It is a day that should be an official public holiday in Dubrovnik and not just left hanging in the balance and open to the interpretation of employers. These traditions need to be cherished. It is also an opportunity that should be exploited more. Exploited in a commercial way as a real tourist offer, but in a classy way. It falls at a perfect time. In the so called off-season when we are crying out for tourists, any kind of tourists.

Yet I think that every festival I’ve been to since my first one has been almost exclusively full of local people. I can’t help feeling that this is a missed opportunity. Away from the tacky “made in China souvenirs” and herds of cruise ship passengers searching for an ice-cream this festival is as traditional and authentic as the walls that surrounded it. This is exactly what tourists are looking for. A real, true local tradition that has survived almost untouched for centuries.

And yet every year it goes on almost hidden away from the prying eyes of tourists. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival, the Klapa vocal choirs, the Linđo folklore ensemble and, of course, St. Blaise, these are the events that need to be cherished. The Old City looks as it should do, full of locals, laughing, happy in a festive mood, celebrating and respecting a tradition that deserves its position as one of the most important days in the city.

Its Dubrovnik’s big day, let’s not hide it away in the shade, let’s put it out in the sun so that all the gold can glitter as it should. Although my advice would be to potential tourists, come and enjoy the festivities but don’t get to close, don’t stand in the front line.

Hundreds of thousands of feet pass down the steps from the Pile Gate into the historic core of the Old City of Dubrovnik on a weekly basis. And over time the rough limestone is polished down to a marble like finish.

In fact many visitors to Dubrovnik believe that the main street, the Stradun, which runs through the heart of the city, is made of marble due to its gloss finish. In fact it, and most of the rest of the streets and buildings, is constructed from limestone. But with the millions of flip-flops, sandals and boots that slide over the stones every year the limestone is buffed up to a marble like finish.

Whilst the “shining” Stradun may look nice on photos it can also be slippery, especially when the spring rains fall. So regularly the busiest streets in Dubrovnik are “roughed up” by workers hammering away to form better grip. It is a long and tedious process, as of course everything must be done by hand, but the end result is better grip and the hopeful prevention of injuries. This work was started yesterday on the steps leading down from the Pile Gate in preparation for another busy summer season.